My Travels: Riches in Gold Harbour and Snowstorm Closes Drygalski Fjord

We landed on a stone beach in moderate surf amongst a group of Elephant seals. Grey-black clouds billowed over the mountains, attempting to cover the gun blue glacier face that divided the black cliff at the other end of the bay.. A loud crack and puff of pure white snow announced the birthing of the…

My Travels: The Fjords and Harbours of South Georgia

Whale blubber tanks are only slightly smaller than oil refinery tanks. The tanks and town buildings of Stromness Bay were uniformly red from the rust and looked peaceful set at the base of glaciers and in the green grass at the water’s edge. This Mad Max like setting belied the peacefulness of the bay and…

My Travels: Amazing Wildlife Spectacles with South Georgia on My Mind

Overnight we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, where the icy waters of the Antarctic mix with the warmer waters of the Atlantic. The ship maintained a blackout with no outside lights except essential navigation lights and all cabins had to have the blackout curtains drawn. We were doing this to avoid petrel mortality as they flew…