Almirante Brown: An Englishman in Argentina

This was to be our last morning on land. I was filled with trepidation.This would be my goodbye to this fragile wilderness and hello to my fragile health.My health was fragile as we were to cross the Drake Passage after the landing.William Brown is anathema. He was born in the 18th century in Ireland, emigrated…

A Scintillating Afternoon in Cierva Cove

After lunch we entered Cierva Cove. The Vavilov moored in the bay. We lined up eagerly on the gangway. The northern sky was a foreboding grey yet filled with texture. Humpback whales were swimming in front of giant icebergs. Nothing can prepare you for the beauty and peace of this land at the bottom of…

My Travels: Gentoos Being Born

The Vavilov had sailed on the north of the South Shetland Islands because thick ice prevented us entering the Antarctic Sound. Now we had turned and were sailing in the channel between the islands and the Antarctic Peninsula. On ether side of the ship rose towering black cliffed mountains with thick glaciers cutting the valleys…

My Travels: Halfmoon Island before Full Moon and Deception on the Vavilov

Penguin Highways Penguins on snow highways. That was one of the photographs I wanted to capture, Today was the day. After three days at sea it was exciting to be doing an excursion again. This morning we would be landing on Halfmoon Island, with three big Chinstrap Penguin Colonies, and perhaps one or two Macaroni…